Mondulkiri travel guide: Sen Monorom and the green highlands
Mondulkiri offers rolling grassy hills, waterfalls, cooler air, Bunong culture and ethical elephant projects. Here's how to plan a trip to Sen Monorom and beyond.
Mondulkiri is Cambodia's largest and least populated province, a high plateau of rolling grasslands, pine-dotted hills and forest in the far east. Its main town, Sen Monorom, is the base for waterfalls, wildlife projects and visits to Bunong villages. After the heat of the lowlands, the cooler evenings are a pleasant surprise.
Sen Monorom
The town is small and spread over low hills, with a market, a few cafes, guesthouses and tour offices. The landscape around it, with its green rolling hills, is unlike anywhere else in Cambodia. Sunset viewpoints just outside town are popular in the evening.
Things to do
- Bou Sra waterfall: a two-tiered waterfall, among the largest in Cambodia, roughly an hour's drive from town.
- Ethical elephant projects: several projects care for elephants in the forest, with visitors walking alongside the animals rather than riding them. Choose ones that limit visitor numbers and work with local Bunong communities.
- Primate trekking: the Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary is home to black-shanked doucs and gibbons; community-based tours offer early-morning treks to find them.
- Trekking and camping: multi-day treks pass through forest, rivers and villages.
- Coffee and local produce: small farms grow coffee, avocados and other crops suited to the cooler climate.
Bunong culture
The Bunong are the largest indigenous group in Mondulkiri. Visits to villages are best arranged through community-run projects or experienced guides, so that families are expecting you and benefit from your visit. Ask before taking photographs.
Getting there
Buses and minivans run from Phnom Penh, a journey of around six to eight hours depending on stops. Roads are paved, but expect winding sections near the plateau.
When to visit
The dry season, from November to April, is best for treks and clear views. Waterfalls are fullest from late in the rainy season into the early dry season. Nights can be cool in December and January, so pack a light jacket.
How long to stay
Plan at least two full days, plus travel days. Three or four days lets you combine an elephant project, a waterfall and a primate trek.
Tips
- Bring cash; ATMs are limited.
- Wear long trousers and closed shoes for treks.
- Book wildlife and elephant experiences in advance in the busy season.