The bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat explained gallery by gallery
Angkor Wat's galleries hold some of the longest stone carvings in the world. Here's what each section shows and the best order to walk them.
In this guide
- How to read them
- West gallery, south half: the Battle of Kurukshetra
- South gallery, west half: the procession of Suryavarman II
- South gallery, east half: heaven and hell
- East gallery, south half: the Churning of the Ocean of Milk
- East gallery, north half: Vishnu's victory over the demons
- North gallery, east half: Krishna's victory over Bana
- North gallery, west half: battle of gods and demons
- West gallery, north half: the Battle of Lanka
- The corner pavilions
- Tips
Angkor Wat's outer gallery is lined with bas-reliefs, low carvings that cover the inner walls for hundreds of metres. They show Hindu epics, a royal procession, scenes of heaven and hell and battles between gods and demons. Most visitors rush past them; spending an hour here is one of the best things you can do at Angkor.
How to read them
The galleries form a rectangle around the temple. The reliefs are meant to be read counter-clockwise, keeping the temple on your left. Start at the western entrance, turn right into the west gallery's southern half and continue around.
West gallery, south half: the Battle of Kurukshetra
A scene from the Mahabharata showing two armies of related clans clashing. The figures move towards each other from both ends, meeting in a tangle of combat in the centre. Look for the commander Bhishma lying on a bed of arrows.
South gallery, west half: the procession of Suryavarman II
The only historical scene. The king sits on a throne surrounded by attendants, then appears on an elephant at the head of an army. Small inscriptions label commanders and units. Look for a group of soldiers dressed differently from the Khmer troops, often identified as Thai mercenaries.
South gallery, east half: heaven and hell
The upper registers show the fortunate rising to the heavens; the lower registers show sinners punished in a series of hells. Yama, the judge of the dead, rides a buffalo.
East gallery, south half: the Churning of the Ocean of Milk
The most famous relief. Gods and demons pull on a giant serpent wrapped around a mountain to churn the ocean and release the elixir of immortality. Vishnu stands at the centre. This section was carefully restored and its roof rebuilt.
East gallery, north half: Vishnu's victory over the demons
Vishnu rides the bird-god Garuda against demon armies. Parts of this section are thought to have been carved later than the rest.
North gallery, east half: Krishna's victory over Bana
Krishna, an incarnation of Vishnu, rides Garuda towards the city of the demon king Bana, which is surrounded by fire.
North gallery, west half: battle of gods and demons
A long line of Hindu gods, each recognisable by their mount and weapons, fights demons.
West gallery, north half: the Battle of Lanka
From the Ramayana: Rama and his monkey army fight the demon king Ravana. The monkey general Hanuman is easy to spot.
The corner pavilions
The corners hold smaller reliefs, mainly from the Ramayana and the life of Krishna. They're often quieter than the main galleries.
Tips
- Visit in the late morning when most groups are at the upper level.
- Bring a small torch or use your phone's light; some sections are dim.
- Don't touch the carvings; oils from hands polish and damage the stone.
- A licensed guide can bring the stories to life.