Sihanoukville today: is it worth visiting?
Sihanoukville has changed dramatically since 2017. Here's an honest look at the city today, what's still worth seeing and why most travellers use it as a gateway to the islands.
In this guide
Few places in Cambodia have changed as fast as Sihanoukville. A decade ago it was a sleepy beach town with backpacker bars. Then, from around 2017, a wave of investment brought casinos, high-rise construction and new roads. After online gambling was banned in 2019 and the pandemic hit, many projects stopped, leaving unfinished buildings across the city. So is it worth visiting now?
The honest answer
For most travellers, Sihanoukville is a transit point rather than a destination. It is the main port for ferries to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem, and it has an airport and good road links with Phnom Penh. If you want a beach holiday, the islands, Kep or the quieter coast around Ream are better choices. If you are curious about modern Cambodia, the city is an eye-opening place to spend a day.
What has changed
- Roads and infrastructure: major roads were rebuilt, and the expressway from Phnom Penh has shortened the journey.
- The skyline: large hotels and condominiums now dominate the centre, many of them unfinished or partly empty.
- The beaches: some former backpacker beaches have been redeveloped. Otres Beach, once lined with wooden bars, lost many of its old businesses.
- The atmosphere: the town feels less geared to Western backpackers than it once did, with many businesses serving Chinese visitors and workers.
What's still worth doing
- Ream National Park: mangroves, quiet beaches and boat trips, around half an hour from town.
- Day trips to nearby islands: smaller islands such as Koh Ta Kiev can be reached by boat.
- Sunsets: some of the town beaches remain pleasant in the evening.
- Seafood: local markets and restaurants serve fresh fish, squid and crab.
Practical tips
- Book island ferries in advance in high season and check the weather; boats can be cancelled in rough seas.
- If you arrive late, stay near the ferry pier or on the outskirts rather than in the busiest construction zones.
- Keep your belongings close, as you would in any busy port town.
- Things change quickly here. Read recent reviews before booking a hotel or restaurant.
Getting there
Buses, minivans and taxis run from Phnom Penh along the expressway, and trains run on some days. Sihanoukville's airport has domestic and some regional flights. From Kampot, the drive takes around two hours.
Frequently asked questions
Is Sihanoukville safe for tourists?
Most visits pass without problems. Use normal precautions with belongings and transport, and avoid deserted construction areas at night.
Should I stay a night before going to the islands?
Only if your ferry leaves early or you arrive late. Otherwise, it's usually easier to go straight from the bus to the pier.