Battambang travel guide: what to see and do
Battambang mixes colonial streets, a creative arts scene and countryside full of hill temples, bat caves and rice fields. Here is how to spend two or three days there.
Battambang, Cambodia's second-largest province, is a favourite of travellers who want something slower than Siem Reap. The town has well-preserved colonial shophouses along the Sangker river, a thriving arts community and easy trips into a countryside of rice fields, hilltop temples and limestone caves.
The town
Start with a walk along the riverside and through the streets around Psar Nat, the central market, a striking 1930s building. Many of the shophouses date from the French period, and some now house cafes and galleries. Battambang is known for its artists, and small galleries show work by local painters and photographers.
In the evening, see a performance by Phare Ponleu Selpak, the arts school whose students went on to found the circus in Siem Reap. Check the schedule in advance, as shows are not held every night.
The countryside
Most visitors hire a tuk-tuk for a day or join a countryside tour that strings together several sights:
- Phnom Sampov: a hill with temples, caves and a viewpoint. At dusk, a huge colony of bats streams out of a cave at its base.
- Wat Banan: an 11th-century temple on a hilltop, reached by a long stone staircase.
- Ek Phnom: a ruined temple next to a modern pagoda, often combined with a stop at a village where rice paper or rice wine is made.
- The bamboo train: the original improvised railway is gone, but a shorter tourist version operates. It's a fun, bumpy ride rather than real transport.
- Village crafts: families make rice paper, dried bananas, fish paste and rice wine along the country roads.
How long to stay
Two full days lets you see the town and one countryside loop. A third day gives time for a cooking class or cycling.
Getting there
Buses connect Battambang with Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. A train runs between Phnom Penh and Battambang on some days. In the wet season, a scenic but slow boat journey to Siem Reap may run when water levels allow; check before planning around it.
Eating
Battambang is known for its rice, oranges and sticky rice dishes. Try num banh chok and the local fish dishes, and look for small bakeries and cafes in the old town.
Tips
- Start countryside trips early to avoid the midday heat.
- Bring a torch if you plan to explore caves.
- Wear clothing suitable for pagodas: shoulders and knees covered.