Jayavarman II and the founding of the Angkorian kingdom

Jayavarman II is often called the founder of the Khmer Empire. Much of what we know about him, though, comes from inscriptions written long after his death. Understanding both the story and its limits makes a visit to Phnom Kulen, the sacred mountain linked to his reign, far more interesting.

The story

According to the Sdok Kak Thom inscription, carved in the 11th century, Jayavarman II came from "Java", ruled from several places in the region and, in 802, held a ceremony on Mount Mahendraparvata, identified with Phnom Kulen. In the ceremony, a Brahmin priest declared him a chakravartin, or universal monarch, freeing the land from dependence on Java and establishing the cult of the devaraja, a sacred link between the king and the divine.

What historians debate

• Who was "Java"? It may refer to the island of Java, to a kingdom in the Malay world, or to another regional power. There is no agreement.
• The date 802: it has become the conventional start of the Angkorian period, but it comes from a later source with its own political aims.
• The devaraja: scholars disagree on what the term meant in practice, whether a god, a ritual or a royal cult.

Most historians agree on the broader point: in the late 8th and early 9th centuries, a ruler brought together competing centres of power and created a stronger, more unified kingdom in the area around Angkor.

Phnom Kulen

Phnom Kulen, about 50 km from Siem Reap, is a sandstone plateau covered in forest. Laser-scanning surveys have revealed traces of an early city there, believed to be Mahendraparvata. Today, visitors come for:

• The river of a thousand lingas: carvings in the riverbed, including lingas and images of Vishnu.
• Preah Ang Thom: a pagoda housing a large reclining Buddha carved into a boulder, an important pilgrimage site for Cambodians.
• The waterfalls: a popular picnic spot, especially at weekends.

Hariharalaya

Jayavarman II's later capital is associated with Hariharalaya, near today's Roluos, southeast of Siem Reap. His successors built the first great temples there, including Preah Ko and Bakong, before the capital moved to the Angkor area.

Visiting

Phnom Kulen is a national park with its own entrance ticket, separate from the Angkor pass. Visit early in the day, dress respectfully for the pilgrimage sites and combine it with Banteay Srei on the way back if you have time.