Preah Khan: The Sacred Sword City
Jayavarman VII’s Lost University-Monastery (1191 CE – 2025) Preah Khan (“Sacred Sword”) is not just another temple. It is the second-largest complex in Angkor after Angkor Thom – a 56-hectare walled city that once functioned as royal capital, Buddhist university, and pilgrimage centre. Built in 1191 by King Jayavarman VII, it was the most ambitious project of Cambodia’s greatest builder-king – and remains one of the most atmospheric ruins in the entire archaeological park.
The Founding – A Memorial to a Father and a Victory
Jayavarman VII constructed Preah Khan in honour of his father Dharanindravarman II, enshrining his image as the bodhisattva Lokesvara in the central sanctuary. The temple’s name commemorates the king’s victory over the Cham invaders in 1190 – the sacred sword that defeated them was kept here. Originally called Nagarajayacri (“City of Victorious Royal Fortune”), it temporarily served as Jayavarman’s capital while Angkor Thom was under construction.
The City That Was a University
Preah Khan was never just a temple – it was a living Buddhist metropolis:
- 97,840 people supported by its revenues (inscription record)
- 1,000 teachers, 5,316 monks, 532 dancers
- 4 satellite temples (one for each cardinal direction)
- 72,000 statues (most now lost)
- A library in every quadrant – the famous two-storey “House of Fire” still stands
The Religious Revolution
Preah Khan was the epicentre of Jayavarman VII’s Mahayana Buddhist revolution:
- Originally Hindu (Shiva linga in the central tower)
- Converted to Buddhism – Buddha images placed above Hindu ones
- Giant garudas on the walls “kill” nagas – symbolising Buddhism’s triumph
- The only Angkor temple with a stupa in the centre (later addition)
The Architecture That Defies Rules
Preah Khan breaks every Angkor convention:
- Flat plan (no pyramid) – like a city rather than a temple-mountain
- Circular corridors – unique in Khmer architecture
- Greco-Roman style columns in the Hall of Dancers (possible Indian Ocean influence)
- A two-storey building with circular columns – the only one in Angkor
The Collapse and Rediscovery
Abandoned after Jayavarman VIII’s Hindu reaction (late 13th century), it was swallowed by jungle. French explorers rediscovered it in the 19th century, but major clearing only began in the 1990s. The World Monuments Fund has been restoring it since 1991 – deliberately leaving some areas “jungle-embraced” for atmosphere.
2025 Condition
- Major restoration completed 2023: eastern gopura and central sanctuary stabilised
- New boardwalks through collapsed areas
- Still one of the wildest major temples – trees growing through libraries
- Best visited early morning or late afternoon for golden light through the ruins
The Hidden Details Most Visitors Miss
- The “Greek columns” in the Hall of Dancers – possible Hellenistic influence
- A carving of a two-storey building – the only depiction of Khmer domestic architecture
- The original sword pedestal in the central sanctuary
- A secret chamber behind the Lokesvara statue – only accessible to monks
Preah Khan isn’t the most beautiful temple (that’s Banteay Srei). It isn’t the biggest (that’s Angkor Wat). But it is the most complete picture of what Angkorian life actually felt like – a bustling Buddhist city-university where 100,000 people once studied, prayed, and danced under the same trees that now embrace the ruins. When you walk its labyrinthine corridors and hear only birdsong where thousands once chanted, you understand why locals call it “the temple that dreams.” In the entire Angkor park, no other place makes the 12th century feel so close you can almost touch it.