Fish amok: Cambodia's signature dish explained

If there's one dish visitors associate with Cambodia, it's fish amok. Delicate fish is steamed in a thick, fragrant coconut curry, often served in a cup made from banana leaves. It's rich but not heavy, aromatic rather than spicy, and a perfect introduction to Khmer flavours.

What's in it

• Fish: usually a firm freshwater fish, such as snakehead or catfish.
• Kroeung: the Khmer herb paste made from lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, kaffir lime leaves, garlic and shallots.
• Coconut milk and cream: for richness.
• Egg: in many versions, to set the mixture into a soft custard.
• Fish sauce and palm sugar: for saltiness and a hint of sweetness.
• Noni leaves (slok ngor): traditional, slightly bitter leaves placed under the fish; spinach or other greens are sometimes used instead.

How it's made

1. The kroeung is pounded into a fine paste.
2. Fish pieces are mixed with the paste, coconut milk, egg and seasonings.
3. The mixture is spooned into banana-leaf cups lined with greens.
4. The cups are steamed until just set.
5. A spoonful of coconut cream is added on top before serving.

Two styles

• Steamed amok: the traditional version, with a soft, custard-like texture.
• Amok as a curry: many restaurants serve a looser version, cooked more like a curry. Both are delicious.

How to eat it

Fish amok is served with steamed rice. Mix a little of the amok into each spoonful of rice. It's usually mild, so you can add chilli if you like.

Variations

You'll find amok made with chicken, tofu, prawns or snails. Vegetarian versions use tofu or mushrooms, but check that fish sauce isn't included if you avoid it.

Where to try it

• Restaurants serving traditional Khmer food in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
• Cooking classes, where you can make it yourself, usually starting with a market visit.
• Homestays, where families may make it for special meals.

Because it takes time to prepare, amok is less common at simple street stalls.

Tips

• If you want the traditional texture, ask whether the amok is steamed.
• The banana-leaf cup isn't eaten.