Cambodian silk: how to tell real from fake

Cambodian silk has a long history, with traditional patterns and natural dyes passed down through generations. But markets also sell imported silk and synthetic fabrics labelled as silk. Here's how to tell the difference.

What makes Khmer silk special

• Golden silk: a native Cambodian silkworm produces yellow-gold silk, prized for its colour.
• Hol: a traditional ikat technique where threads are tie-dyed before weaving to create intricate patterns.
• Phamuong: a plain or simply patterned silk, often in rich, solid colours.
• Hand-weaving: many pieces are woven on wooden looms in villages.

Simple checks

• Touch: real silk feels smooth, soft and slightly cool. Synthetic fabrics often feel slippery or too perfect.
• Look: hand-woven silk has slight irregularities in the weave. Machine-made fabrics look completely uniform.
• Shine: real silk has a natural sheen that changes with the light; synthetics often have a flat, uniform shine.
• Price: hand-woven silk takes time to make. If a large scarf is very cheap, it's probably not hand-woven silk.

The burn test

A burnt thread of real silk smells like burning hair and leaves a crumbly ash; synthetic fibres melt and smell like plastic. Only do this with permission and a loose thread, and never in a shop without asking.

Where to buy

• Weaving villages: Takeo province and Koh Dach (Silk Island) near Phnom Penh, where you can watch weavers at work.
• Social enterprises: shops that work with weavers and guarantee authenticity.
• Reputable boutiques in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

Questions to ask

• Is it hand-woven?
• Is it Cambodian silk or imported?
• Are the dyes natural or synthetic?
• Who made it?

Caring for silk

Hand-wash in cold water with mild soap, don't wring, dry in the shade and iron on a low setting.

Tips

• Buy from shops that explain where their silk comes from.
• Expect to pay more for hand-woven pieces; it supports weavers.
• Look for traditional patterns that tell a story.